FLIR One: USB-C and battery mod.

FLIR ONE, a nice product, with extremely limiting battery and bad software. (Luckily, third-party software is much better)

You may say the battery has two reasons to be there:
1: Limit useful time: pushing users to a more expensive product.
2: Obsolescence by design: become useless as the battery age and force an upgrade.

1: remove the need for battery and charging.
2: replace the MicroUSB with USB-C

Tools: You will need one security T5 (Torx5 with a hole in the middle)

The original USB connector extracted from FLIR One
Fast mapping of the connections between USB and mainboard.
1: By heating the MicroUSB up, I removed it from the retainer.
2:USB-C OTG to MicroUSB adapter will be the donor for USB-C
3: This 4-pin motherboard connector will be re-used.

Using a Dremel multi-tool, I expanded the slot it the black connector retainer and the main body.
Using adapter (2): after de-soldering it’s female MicroUSB – I glued the USB-C connector inside the black retainer using epoxy.

The new connector in place, wires soldered to the motherboard connector.
Mainboard in place, observe the orange wire providing power where needed.
No more battery.

Assemble, throw away battery.

USB-C in place.

There is no more need for charging or switching on the device. Also, it does not run out of juice after 5 minutes anymore 🙂

SW-LD73 Laser driver modification.

This laser driver board seems to be common for many <20W LED lasers used for cutting/engraving.

Whenever powered on, it defaults to full power due to a rather strong internal pull-up.

Most CNC machines have a laser TTL PWM output that goes into high-impedance mode on boot. In that case, any connection to, or reboot of the microcontroller will make the laser output full power for about 2 seconds while the user may not be prepared for that.

D3, in the red ring, provides power for the pullup.


The solution is to remove D3, which provides power to the pull-up, then the laser will not be “default on” anymore.

3DR Solo Cube 5v modification (Run ArduCopter safely with stock cube)

Update: As of Arducopter 4.0.0 for Solo, the motor slew rate is available, and this mod is NOT required if you are happy to use slew rate.( which gives a little less responsive copter, lust like the original 3DR fix.)

3DR Solo Cube (Pixhawk 2.0) outputs 3.3v PWM, the IO buffers run off 3.3v on both sides, while they are perfectly capable of delivering 5v.  Using 5v is safer when using 3DR Solo firmware with PWM slew rate, and required for ArduCopter code on Solo.

The simple solution is to purchase “Green cube” (usually sold out)  or modify Pixhawk 2.1

The alternative solution, is to modify Solo’s Pixhawk 2.0 Cube.

This does require some soldering skills, and can be done by any semi-decent repair shop if you cannot do it yourself.

(The width of the buffer chip is 4.5mm)

The two first images show two different PCB layouts of the Pixhawk 2.0 cube, so everybody should recognize, and stick to one 🙂

Open the cube, and locate the rightmost buffer ic. (TXS0108E marked YF08E)

Desolder the buffer (here seen on another PCB layout):

Cut the trace that feeds the upper left pad:

Re-solder the buffer:

Attach a thin wire to the pin. (provide 5v to the buffer’s VccB)

The other end of wires are routed to the clearly labelled 5v pad in the upper right corner of the Pixhawk2.0 :

Finally, clean and cover wire using conformal coating, to prevent vibrations to damage it: (UV inspection below)

Congratulations, output 1…8 output is now 5v.

Final note: the UV inspection picture picture shows another buffer, not used for PWM, the photos are taken on different occasions, and while batch processing many, not only one, so the time is not 30minutes between desolder and resoldering one device as timestamp may suggest.

Should you use a professional to do this job, it should take <15 minutes.

Modified files for uploading using Solex (Just copy into /Solex/download/package)  – The only modification is to make Solex ignore the fact that the modified cube still runs the old 3DR fork of ArduCopter.

Once you upgrade to the 3.5.2 I provided here, you can continue to upgrade to newer versions using SSH /Solex and/or OpenSolo as if you had the greeen cube.

(2) Wipe Pixhawk Firmware for 5v mod

(3) ArduCopter 3.5.2 Firmware for 5v mod

(There is nothing special with the ArcuCopter build itself, only the )

3DR Solo GPS/GNSS NEO M8N upgrade

3DR Solo GPS upgrade to uBlox M8N – the cheap’n’simple ($15) way:

Be sure to buy a GPS that looks like this:

several sellers on Ebay sell them for less than US$15 including shipping from China.

4 Screws later, inside, strip the wire, and interface with a standard FTDI cable for configuration:


Using uBlox u-Center
Yes, it’s windows-only, that sucks, but it runs just fine in Wine , just make a link to the serial device like:
sudo ln -s /dev/ttyUSB0 ~/.wine/dosdevices/com5

configure NAV5 like this:

remember to store to flash:

Remove Solo’s GPS module, by making two small grooves in the pcb where the two screw-holes are, the PCB if held in place by the two original screws.

Cut off one of the connectors, and solder the wires to the pads:
Yellow to TX
Brown to RX

Sony QX1 Focus/Trigger control and feedback for drone use.

 RC, PWM control for QX1.

Buy QX1 modification service ($150)

Buy a QX1 battery eliminator 4.75V-23V

Sony ILCE-QX1 has great specifications at low weight, which makes it good for UAV photogrammetry use.  It can be configured using WiFi , then retain the configuration. (so it’s not necessary to even enable wifi for each operation.

About the modification:

The pop-up flash assembly is removed, an microcontroller replaces the flash assembly, it’s interfacing the motherboard indirectly, via FPC. The flash cover is slightly cut to make space for the servo (PWM input)   and logic level output that indicates shutter operation.

Can reliably do manual-focus shoot every 700ms. (no drops)

The camera will continue to function normally as before when the PWM interface is not supplied with power, except for the flash.

The modification requires micro-soldering; most narrow are three points within 1mm distance. Naturally, it voids camera warranty. (so test camera well before getting it modified.)

Features of the modification:

  • Camera will not shut down when inactive..
  • 3-wire servo connector (PWM input)
  • 1-wire logic output (high on shutter) -allows precise GPS positioning of each photo, and confirmation to the AP that photo is taken.
  • Command “Shoot” (just trigger a photo, for preset/manual focus)
  • Command “autofocus for 500ms, then shoot”
  • Command “autofocus for 1s, then shoot”

Suggested ArduPilot setup:

CAM_FEEDBACK_PIN (set to correct input)

PWM Commands:

990us … 1400us = Shoot instantly (manual focus)
1401us … 1600us = Idle
1601us … 1800us = autofocus 0.5s , shoot
1801us … 2200us =autofocus 1s , shoot

I can convert your camera, but I am unable to provide QX1 cameras from Norway.

Contact for more information.

PWM>FLIR: Control FLIR TAU, TAU2, Quark using PWM (RC Radio)


A quick demo, switching between 8 modes using a servo-tester. The TAU640 in this video is set for outdoor use, and does not show the full advantage of Ice&Fire modes inside.



What you get:

  • A microcontroller on a small PCB (18x33x3mm) with soldering pads. Preprogrammed with 8 different modes as in this video, or up to 10 custom modes (as ordered).
  • The circuit works on 5v, uses less than 10mA.  You can connect it using 3 wires,  just like a servo)
  • The modes are selected using a knob on your transmitter, PWM decide mode, just like a servo position.
  • Serial data, is sent from the device to your FLIR device using one wire – (assuming you have common ground)
  • The common modes in this test video shows 8 modes I’ve found very useful.

What you need:

  • FLIR TAU ,TAU2, or QUARK thermal core.
  • For TAU,  “Wearsaver” helps a lot.  – It offers big soldering pads for connecting to the Hirose 50p connector. RX(pin2)
  • For Quark , you need to connect the serial signal to pin 15 of the Samtec 60 pin – connector. or to the breakout board, if you that.

Connection instructions:

Connect PWM (white wire) from your receiver to pad9 on PWM>FLIR device
Connect “-” (black wire) from your receiver to GND on the PWM>FLIR device
Connect “+” (red wire) from your receiver to VCC on the PWM>FLIR device

Connect pad8 on the device to your RX pad on wear saver, thats solder pad with green ring in the picture below.
Connect ground and +5v to TAU (black and red pads in picture below)

Finally, for information only:composite video out is on the yellow pad, and video ground on the blue pad on the TAU wearsaver.

TAU Wearsaver connection

Default mode configuration is:

1, white hot, no zoom , spatial threshold gain 34d.
2 white hot, 2x zoom, spatial threshold gain 34d.
3 Black Hot, no zoom , spatial threshold gain 34d.
4 Black Hot, 2x zoom, Spatial threshold = 9d
5 Fusion,no zoom, spatial threshold gain 34d.
6 ICE & Fire, no zoom, spatial threshold gain 34d.
7 Rainbow, no zoom, Spatial threshold, Gain = 34d
8 ICE & Fire, no zoom , Spatial threshold 17d

You can output a PWM from an autopilot, controlled by GCS, having any GUI you prefer.  – Or , if  you are will be controlling the PWM directly from a RC radio, you  do not need a rotary knob with steps, it’s perfectly easy to hit desired mode even with smooth knob due to the quick visual change, and equal “distance” between modes.

Buy PWM>FLIR interface ($160)

(Cart will appear below)

Double DIN car computer

It’s long time since last time I published a new buildlog/project.
My new car needed a decent stereo,  it had a “iProduct” interface, but I needed something better.
Unlike my previous car computer projects, I did not wish to install an amp + carputer in the trunk, and run VGA,USB and speaker cables forth and back. I wished to have everything integrated in the dashboard.

The idea was to build according to ISO standard, then use a Toyota<>ISO-harness adapter.
Using the ISO-Toyota harness and integrating an amplifier also makes it easy to control the car’s active sub kit and active antenna, without modification.

Analysis of the resistive buttons connector in Avensis
This is the control module interface documentation, a RJ45 connector between computer & external controls.
This is the control panel itself, controls power mode (always on/always off/follow ignition) camera select and reset switch built into the ashtray,(usually closed)
Lilliput 629 (7″ touchscreen) disassembled
The resulting analysis of the proprietary connector of the display controller. Cables with proper motherboard connectors are now soldered directly to it.
The Lilliput needed to have some shielding cut off to fit better inside the (far from perfect) Double-DIN box
The display’s edges needed to be padded, to prevent the double-din frame from “touching” the touchscreen area.
Display, and display controller installed, IR sensor and buttons relocated.
Don’t repeat my mistake, while waiting for this motherboard, I built proper 2,54 connectors for VGA,USB,Audio and so on, just to discover the pin headers on this motherboard are 2.0mm !
Circuit for relay control. (provides power to display, amp, external amp(active sub), and antenna output).
Motherboard+PSU installed, the hard-drive is below motherboard
The amplifier is now installed (built around a TDA7850 (4x~50W) plus BA3121 ground isolation amplifiers.).
Radio module installed, The blue cable in the control port simulates the “usual” control-panel configuration for lab-use (follow ignition) and use reverse camera
That’s it, ISO connector compatible device. with internal radio, and amplifier.
Installed in car, displaying reflection because it’s off.
Running Centrafuse
I also modified the “hibernating” screen with a custom logo – removing windows logo feels good, looking forward to the release of Centrafuse for Linux. Picture

XBOX S-Video + SPDIF mod

This mod gives S-Video output, and SPDIF (digital audio) output, plus removes the need for the original audio+video cable

Why:  XBOX usually delivers Composite Video output + Stereo output.   With an “Advanced” cable, user can enjoy RGB video & optical SPDIF.
I wanted higher video quality then composite video delivers, and my projector (as most projectors) does not support RGB.S-Video is better then Composite, mostly because it uses 2 wires (Luminance & Chrominance) , instead of  just using one wire, as Composite does.

This mod allows XBOX to boot & work just fine without the original audio+video-cable connected.

The original cable is still working after modding this way.

This should not be necessary to say, :  This voids your XBOX warranty instantly 🙂

+The original connector/cable will still work as before.

I skip schematics – here goes the pictures…  they say it all:

Finding the signals/connecting to them:

This picture shows the solder-side of the XBOX motherboard, where the video+audio connector is mounted.
RED long wire,  goes to the center of the SPDIF connector.
WHITE wire, is the S-VIDEO Luminance line
GREEN wire, is the S-VIDEO Chrominance line
The thin RED wire that connects three solder-points , connects two sensing-points to GND, When this two points are grounded – XBOX is cheated to believing that the original cable is connected, AND  SPDIF digital audio output is enabled

TRICK:  Usually – I would also need to connect the Y-GND & C-GND lines too.  XBOX is fortunately well build and uses common ground for all I/O lines, and therefore, I will use the ground from the XBOX  chassis instead..

Now , The connectors:

This is the inside of XBOX’s rear shielding plate.,

I drilled some holes, and inserted:
One female RCA connector for the SPDIF
One female S-VIDEO connector
Both connector’s shields are soldered to the XBOX’s chassis-shield (perfect ground source, XBOX motherboard is very well grounded at several points)

Finally , Connecting the connectors:

*1  =  S-Video connector.   There are two more pins beneath the two you see.  These pins are connected to ground.
*2  =  SPDIF, ground connected by soldering shield to the XBOX shield

HINT: You can see I removed the tin-fan-grills that  were between the fan and the plastic fan-grills.  I did it to improve air-flow.

A better alternative :

Using shielded cables might give higher quality – I did not see any difference, but here’s some pictures of this mod with shielded cables…

Modifying E-Dimensional ED-Glasses (3d glasses)

This will void your warranty !

This picture shows the two dongles that are necessary needed , the big one is the controller , with infrared connector (for wireless glasses) & the other connector for wired glasses.  This controller needs +5Volt at pin #9 in order to work.

Some graphic adapters deliver +5 volt @ pin#9 , Nvidia’s reference-design based adapters does not. you will also need external +5volt if you want to use the stereo glasses on/after a KVM switch or with an extension cable.

This is when you need the power adapter , the smaller one , it’s gutted on this picture , but it’s just a PS2 keyboard male+female (pass thru) adapter that connects between the PS2 port an keyboard in order to leech some power , and then deliver it to pin #9 in the smaller VGA-VGA (DSUB15) dongle.


I thought that 2 adapters were one too much , so I chopped off the PS2/PS2 connector cable from the small dongle and found that both wires inside were connected together to +5volt (the bigger dongle is already connected to GND by the shield , and R,G,B-ground.

Then I drilled a hole in the dongle for the cable (can be seen on both pictures)


The black wire with the red shrink wrap and red wire in  center is the one , it goes straight for the second idle drilled wire-pad on the dongle’s board.

+5 Volt delivered , and only one dongle needed – less cable macaroni.

I like the product , it’s one of those gadget’s you can buy and NOT regret it the day after    – the dongle is of high quality and does NOT cause poor picture quality at high resolution/refresh rate , I just removed it for a cleaner setup.

You can also use USB connector to get the +5v .


E-D Glasses is trademark of

Extra fan sensors for Motherboard Monitor

how to add 4..16 extra tachometers to your computer

Motherboard Monitor by Alexander van Kaam is a great freeware that uses hardware monitoring chips found on most Pentium and all newer motherboards. MBM will detect and use the circuit described below.

Some motherboards have 4 monitored fan connectors ,others have only 2. They all have one thing in common: the SMBus.

Want to add 4, 8, 12  or 16 more fan sensors ?

One of my computers is a fulltower with 14 harddrives, 12port hardware RAID controller , SCSI adapter and is cooled by 5 fans in the cabinet + one on CPU , plus 2 in PSU and 2 in drive cage.

So I needed to to monitor more fans.
I choose the MAX6651 16 pin QSOP IC. (datasheet)

You can get one at
MAX6651 offers 4 fan monitors (tachometer), and five programmable I/O ports.and voltage control that could be used to control fan speed.


Resistors 10K

Please add a 10nF capacitor between GND and VCC near the chip.

ADD is the pin that sets the IC’s SMBUS address, there can be up to four MAX6651’s on the same bus and the address is set by:
-ADD Connected to GND
-ADD Connected to VCC (+5V)
-ADD Not Connected (floating)
-ADD Connected to GND using a 10K resistor.

SMBus Connector:

Motherboards SMBus connector is 5-pin and is configured like this:
2-(not used)

Most decent motherboards have such connector, if you cannot find it, or your motherboard do not have it, thengo to my “locating SMBUS” page for instructions.


Some additional info from the author of MBM:

The MAX6651 is a sensor chip only for fan readout, this sensor chip is not automatically detected by MBM because it has no device ID and it can be located on an address which a normal sensor chip uses, so if I where to auto-detect it many users would suddenly get this sensor chip in their fan list while they don’t even have it

Edit the MBM 5.ini file and find the [ADVANCED] section, add the line MAX6651=1 this will make MBM scan for it.

Please understand that the fan divider on this sensor chip counts for ALL fans and thus should be set the same for all the MAX6651’s of 1 chip found. The last one MBM sets when starting up is the one that will overrule all others


Fan 1 : MAX6651-1-1 : divider 2
Fan 2 : MAX6651-1-1 : divider 4
Fan 2 : MAX6651-1-1 : divider 8
Fan 4 : MAX6651-1-1 : divider 4

for all fans MBM will set the divider to 4 since Fan 4 has it at 4.

The challenge….

…Is to connect the small QSOP package MAX6651 comes in.

You should be happy MAX6651 is so small , with that little mass it picks up temperature changes really quick (local sensor in huge packages is always sluggish)

So all you have to do , is connect those pins , each pin is 0.25mm wide, and there is one pin each 0.6 mm.
That is : “on less than 5mm there is 8 pins to solder”.

You need a soldering iron with a small tip.

SMBus uses only weak (20mA) open collector outputs. It’s not possible to destroy I2C or SMBus by short Data and/or Clock to GND or VCC or to each other.

The easy way….

You can order a prototype QSOP PCB (*) that have large terminals and are easy to work with .

*Thanks goes to Brian Macomber for providing the link.

Some Pictures….

just a test computer – observe the “Fan 4…..Fan 7”

The black 4-pin connector is the “floppy power” connector – it’s there to provide power (+12volt) to the fans.
The double green connector is the SMBUS connector that goes to the motherboard – there are two of them (above each other) to allow chaining of more SMBUS devices , like even more fan sensors or temperature sensors.



Q: how can I make a fanbus that is able to control the fan speed/(voltage) ?
A: The MAX6651 have several outputs, but only one is “almost” suitable for controlling speed. To be able to smoothly control the voltage to each fan, a simple D/A output is not enough.


Additional Info/thnx:

Per Ullman – shows you here how he build this project by connecting to the RAM DIMM sockets, rather than soldering on the DIMM’S.

 Thanks to:

Alexander van Kaam – not only for MBM, but also for quick help and additional info.